Hobo again

Can't really say a lot of positive stuff about modern slavers, but one is for sure, they are masters of applied psichology. The boss waited for me in Imgye with a beer. Who needs more?
Now I'm in the middle of nowhere, between the mountains, a place to spend the honeymoon, not to live with a bunch of Chinese workers.



It took me three days to make clear to them that I'm not from Uzbekistan. Than for a short time I was from Singapore. The boldest of them (who speaks some Korean) asked me if he can be my friend. Now he's so cocky when at least ten times a day he points to me and tells the others that we're friends.
And after a week I'm again an Uzbek...
Last year when I was posting about stinky tofu I tought I will probably never try it and yet, here I am, survived the experience. It was served in a soup with some unrecognizable things and it wasn't blueish as I read but had more of a violet dash. The smell? Not that bad, really, I ate much more stinking cheese! And the taste wasn't so special, a little bit different, I can't say the difference, but it was there. All in all, a pleasant experience.
The other stuff ain't pleasant at all. It's raddish again, no cabbage and I plain hate it. I'm staying here just because of a promise I made and the same instant I can fulfill it, I leave. Mostly because of the shitty company. I know why in China they have their so called "communism" - because they deserve it.
I adore child's surprises. They are so inventive in their cuteness that it's amazing. After two or three days here I found in my backpack a wooden medallion, a round piece of wood, on it handpainted a cute rabbit and on the reverse she left a message: 닥 아저씨 화이팅! 해 인
Life hasn't been very nice to her in the last time but she still has enough good will, courage, love and kindness to worry about me and comfort me. She really is a special girl. I suppose today is another day off so I go to visit her. Something like 6km on foot and 2 hours by bus in one way to buy her ice cream and see her smile. Of course I will demand a hug, too!
From the pictures you may deduce that we're having a good time here, but you'll be wrong. I just choose some nice pics, that's it.

Odaesan Hike, The Defeat

First the promised pictures from the last entry. This is the evening near Woljeong sa.

A morning walk here can really make your day!



But also some weird signs in the park. protected area, you know... No what???

Some konglish also. Here you are...


Now, about the defeat.
From Sangwon sa I reached Birobong to have an amazing view of... nothing. The top was in the clouds, it was raining and it was cold so I just gave up on following the Odaesan crest to reach it's highest peak, some 3 meters more than Birobong, and went back in the valley the way I came up. Since on the way to Birobong there are two more temples the path was pretty crowded even in a rainy day. My next destination was Dongdae san and that was a tough one. Had to do 1000 meters in altitude on a 2.7 km long way. Had to have three breaks, I'm getting too old for fun like that. Not for the mountains, it's just my philisophy "omnia mea mecum porto" and I end carrying a 20+ kg backpack with me. From the top of Dongdaesan I had the same pretty view as from Birobong, with the addition of a really hard rain. And then I was really soaked wet. Anyway I had to laugh when I finally recognized some Korean mushrooms. Now I know I can do mushroom picking also here!

Yes, it's definitelyy him - Boletus!

But I won't do it for economical purposes, in a country where fruits and vegetables are outrageously expensive, 1kg of dried boletus is about 5 euro!
I had no choice, I had to follow the sign showing me to the left - sort of "nothing there"?

I descended in the next valley, actually it's a pass, having in mind to find a place to sleep and continue in the valley of waterfalls. Descendig - the stairs!

According to the map on the Jingogae pass there is a rest area, the Park entrance and so on, so I was expecting it would be easy to find any kind of place for the night. But it was a real disappointment - a huge parking lot, a small restaurant and a closed ranger station. A roof so small that I barely managed to have a smoke without wetting the cigarette. And yes, a so stinky toilet that I opted for taking a crap under the rain. The nearest shelter is on the Noinbong peak, some 2 hours walk. I couldn't do it. It was getting dark, I was too tired and there was again a very good chance of the shelter being closed, abandoned or who knows what. No way, back to the valley. I gave up. I had only one barely dry shirt, no chance for making a fire for cooking and it was dark already. But I slept nice and dry and woke up at 9 AM, the clothes were almost dry, the river nearby was clear, so in the end it was a pleasant defeat.
Even more pleasant because after just a three hours walk I was knocking on the door of an apartement, shouting "It's uncle Dag!" and a shiny smile welcomed me.

If only all the defeats would be like this!

Odaesan Hike, The Beginning

Day 1
I managed something like 15 km (conservative). Found shelter halfway between Woljeong sa and Sangwon sa. This "sa" means temple, so I won't write "Woljeong sa temple" as I won't write "Odaesan Mountain" - san means mountain.
I left Dong Seoul station at noon, after a nice chitchat with a perfect stranger, who surprisinly knew where is Slovenia. He was there 20 years ago, when Yugoslavia was falling apart. I arrived in Jinbu at 2.30 PM, didn't stop there because my princess was still at school. Instead of taking the bus to the Park I started walking. Yes, I was definitely in the mountains of Gangwon do! Temperatures way more friendly than in Seoul or in the south, some nice breeze, cold water in the river to refresh my feet. Some 2 km before Woljeong sa a huge SUV stopped and a lady asked if she can give me a lift. Why not, I never exactly enjoyed walking the asphalt roads, I jumped in the car and thanked her. One surprise a day is more than enough, but no, no need to explain her where is Slovenia (not Slovakia) as I usually have to do, no, she was in Ljubljana and in that funny cave with spaghetti hanging from the ceiling...Is this a joke or what? Two Koreans that both were in Slovenia in one day? I insisted to be dropped off at Woljeong sa even if she was going further in the mountains nad was willing to take me. No, I wasn't afraid to be raped or molested, actually I wouldn't mind that. Woljeong sa is one of "my" temples. My first experiences, so whenever I pass by I stop for a prayer and a short meditation. So she wanted to give me food, a drink, some coffee... I almost went back in the car, hoping that higher in the mountains she would be willing to offer me something else... OK, stupid joke - just that it isn't a joke at all. Anyway I stayed at Woljeong sa, refilled my bottle with fresh water and changed my sweaty smelling shirt before venturing in the Buddha Hall. I skipped the 108 prostrations, it's something I really don't need on a trekking, but I was amazed that I managed almost 20 minutes of the Japanese seiza without any pain.
Yes, I was definitely in an almost perfect mood when I was leaving the temple and to make even closer to perfection was a gently drizzling rain. With the drops so small that you don't feel them and they don't wet you, only the air around you becomes cooler and that is something as dream weather for walking. Thirty seconds later I knew how the Egyptian soldiers felt when the Red Sea closed upon them. Seems I shouldn't have skipped the prostrations... Wet as a rat I waited for more than one hour under a roof at Woljeong sa, ate my dinner and finally the rain stopped. It was already dark, here there is no such nonsense as daylight saving hours, but I went on. To find a confortable shelter. As for the moment I have no clue what it is, I just know that it is located on an empty parking lot in the middle of the woods, it wasn't locked and it has electric power. If this post will appear on my blog with a year or so of delay, it means that I was arrested for burglary. I'll try to find out more tomorrow.

Day 2
Woke up early, 5 AM and the first tought was that I need some long sleeved shirt. Long what?? Christ on a cracker, I haven't seen long sleeves since Iwanuma! Lucky for me, I know Gangwon do. It's a place where I was removing snow on April 12th, two years ago. So at the bottom of the backpack I found some better clothes and also decided for the rubber boots. Another good idea. I was sleeping here:

Still have no idea what it's for, maybe for the parking lot keeper when there's something to keep. Did some scouting and found that the Odae Shelter is just 200 m away - but I was really lucky in the dark to first find the alternative for the night. The shelter is closed, it actually looks abandoned. One door was open, it looked like the emergency room to be used when the shelter itself is closed and when I peeked in I almost puked. It reminded me of the shelter I found on Monte Amaro in the Appennini. And that one I had to use because it was 4 below zero and nothing around for kilometers. I love saying that I don't like people in Slovenia and love to make jokes about them, but what's fair is fair - I'll never say a bad word about how they keep the mountains and the huts and shelters there!
At least there's a decent and clean public toilet here, so I shaved and so on and now I'm stuck in it for the last three hours. It's raining cats and dogs outside. Yes, the toilet is clean and spacious and it has power so I'm not using my laptop on battery, but it's still a... toilet. I think I can manage it for two more hours than I go, no matter what weather.
Whoa, this is the Korea I know! I catched a break in the rain and did it to Sangwon sa where it started pouring again. So I'm under a roof, a little bit cold, but I have wireless!
Only 3 km so far for today, but as soon the rain stops I go on Birobong peak and run back down for roof. The morning scenery was enough to make my day, but I want more. Junkies, you know...
Pictures some other time, connection too slow.
Ah yes, I found out where I slept, it's a ranger station.

Mountains, mountains!

I feel really great this evening. And it's not just because of the beers in the fridge. It's the map in my pocket. And the food supplies in my backpack.
Tomorrow morning I leave Seoul for the Odaesan National Park. Odaesan originally means "Five Peak Mountain", so it can be took as an upgrade of Triglav (Three Peaks) in Slovenia. Well, a poor upgrade it is, the highest peak, 비로봉, reaching 1563 m, but as I saw on my previous visits there, the scenery is amazing. I wasn't there for hiking, the peaks and waterfalls are all still yet to be seen, but I visited many temples there. Mainly the Woljeong sa. Many times. With my princess, too. I plan to stay there for few days, waiting for the cabbage. Not in the temple, in the nearby mountains. Few shelters there, much more temples, if there will be more rain than the forecast says. I got my cooking pot, a bag of ramyon, a box of kimchi, hot peppers, coffee and tomorrow, for the trip, hard boiled eggs. It's something that almost every Korean has when she/he goes somewhere. Saw it first in the movies and later on the trains or the buses. I just have to avoid the trails. I don't want to be the target of too much concern or some mockery. I plan to do the hiking in sandals. And that is a no-go in Korea. Folks here, when they go to the nearby hill, must have all the high tech gear available to Himalayan expeditions. Let alone when they go up to 1500 meters. Ah, but I forgot to say... many times, to reach the top, you have a built stairway. Don't really like that.
Bought me new batteries for the camera and just had to take a picture of them.

It was taken under yellow light - the batteries are pink ;-) Just love them. And again, I didn't buy a fourpack but two twopacks because it was cheaper.
Hopefully the next post will consist of pictures of mountains, valleys, streams and waterfalls.

Tourists, Travellers & Junkies

In Hakata I slept with a bunch of homeless Japanese in the park near the ferry terminal. In the evening I was already in Korea, sharing beer and travel stories with other guests at the Blue Backpackers hostel in Busan. Informations picked at times like that are usually worth more than the latest edition of Lonely Planet. So when a girl complained that she's expecting to have a hard time in China to obtain the visa for Tibet, I advised her - as I heard from many travellers - to try through Nepal instead of China, it's way easier. "Oh, no, we don't have so much time, we have only five days left, three for China and two for Tibet!"
I choked on my beer and wanted to laugh in her face. I didn't. Because it would be laughable if she had said that they have three days for Beijing - but no, they have three (3) days for CHINA. And that's pathetic. I suppose that the visa processing takes longer than that. Filthy tourists.
Tourists are like people that buy books, but never read them. Or like folks who have a cellar full of wine bottles from all over the world, but they didn't drink a glass of it. Tourists are mostly complaining. About prices, food, transportation, accomodation, people, weather - you name it, they will have a complain about it.
And then, there are travellers. They don't complain. They don't mind sleeping on the floor. They travel with a smile, they are willing to help, they are good company and a reliable source of information. No, I'm not talking about my virtues. I'm talking about people that I meet in hostels, on ferries, on the road. I'm lucky. I meet more travellers than tourists.
As for me, I belong to a third category. You see, tourists travel because they heard that travelling is cool and they can afford it. Travellers do it because they really like it and can afford it. We - the travel junkies - do it because we simply have to. Being affordable or not is not a question. We have to. It's an addiction.
Cleraly I didn't get any teaching job. Never will. There are too many plumbers and electricians from US here and being a native speaker is the best reference. Actually, the only one. Sure that between them there are some amazing good teachers, but I will never forget the guy I met at the Hong Kong airport. An electrician. Don't get me wrong - I really respect every trade, but electricians are supposed to work with wires, not with kids! When he heard I was heading for the UK, he was worried about me: "Oh, but in what language will you speak there? Is there a lot of people who understand English?" He wasn't joking about some cockney or other dialects, he simply didn't have a clue what language is spoken in that misterious country in Europe, called United Kingdom. Thank you, teacher.
Cabagge is waiting for me, starting this week. One good thing about it is that we'll be in Gangwon do, being the region where my princess lives. I can visit her on every day off.

Hiroshima mon amour?

Elle: They make advertisements for soap. Why not for peace?
(Hiroshima mon amour, 1959)

Within the first two to four months of the bombings, the acute effects killed 90,000–166,000 people in Hiroshima...
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atomic_bombings_of_Hiroshima_and_Nagasaki)

It's two mornings ago I was safely in Korea, cleaning the mess.

And saying goodbye to some really nice folks, even if the blind granny laughed at me all the time - she was nice!

And yesterday morning again in Japan...

Call me masochist or whatever you want. I really do some choices where to go when in Japan: Nagasaki, Iwanuma, now Hiroshima. Of course I had to go to the Ground Zero, The Memorial Hall and the Peace Park! Even more because of what I read about on the web. That the Memorial hall is a monument to Japanese innocence. That in Nagasaki at least are mentioned the Korean slaves that died in the bombing. Now I would love to remember the web sites with these informations, hunt down the idiots who wrote them and smash their faces on the walls of the Memorial Hall.




No, I wouldn't really do that - not there, but in a dark narrow street of Hiroshima, yes, with pleasure.
Because the first thing I saw, entering the Hall, after a slow walk in the Park, was a sign saying - I write by memory - "At a certain point in the 20th century Japan stepped on the path of war..." Yes, it doesn't mention the Japanese war crimes, I agree, but it cleraly states who choose to start the war. And the third sign admits that this decision caused so many death and suffering. The second is about the victims: "The bomb killed indiscriminately, not only the citiziens of Hiroshima, but Korean conscripted workers, Chinese conscripted workers and American prisoners of war" (again, by memory).
I'm so sick. No, don't worry, nothing to do with my health. My brain is so sick. I started to have hallucionations today on my way back from the Hall. I was avoiding people that weren't there. I was walking and suddenly there was someone in front of me, I jumped aside not to bump into him and be a barbarian baka gaijin... but there was nobody.



Morning in Hiroshima. I quit writing to show a guy from Denmark what umeshu is - hell, he's in Japan almost a month and he didn't have a clue what I'm talking about. Some beers (Kirin), a few sips of pure Korean soju (Jinro) and a full glass of umeshu put him to bed.
Not me, I'm a stubborn SOB.
No, I'm an idiot. And I mean it. We - meaning me (of course in the first place), Morten - the Danish guy - and some Japanese, not to mention a Japanese student in pink underwear that is here to make some research how the survivors of the bomb managed to overturn their hatred to a quest for peace. Don't ask me about her underwear, just believe me, it's pink. It was fine, talking a lot, drinking and eating, why not, I had plenty of Korean seaweed, soju, orange chocolate from Jeju island and ramyon (or, how they call it here: delicious but not healthy seaweed,; shochu made from potatoes; chockoreto from an island we yet have to make our own; and ramen that Koreans think they invented just because they call it ramyon). I agree with the last, its true.



So it was a nice late evening for all the bunch, me in a .. mood. Morten just had to ask her (the pink panties, you know) how the Japanese really coped with the bomb, with being colonialists and warmongers and upon being beaten so hard to turn to peace making and so on. Two of them started talking about suffering and how hard it was to overcome all that... when The Idiot just couldnt manage to keep his filthy mouth shut and said "Ask Yukio Mishima about that" Of course I stressed the name wrong so it took almost five seconds to the Japanese to realize who I'm talking about. And even without the air conditioning the temperature fell for some 30 degrees. I clearly heard the eye contacts freezing and crushing, yes, it was like something fell on the floor and the next moment I wasn't there anymore. Nobody saw me. I was just another no-person for them. Morten didn't have a clue what it was about, he went on with his private research about the Japanese quest for peace and all the Japanese - shit, I have to admit it, they did it really well - just looked at my non-existing I and my non-existing I just bowed and left the kitchen. I didn't want to put Morten in a delicate postion, I preferred to drop it off.
If you think you know something about Mishiam - well, I suppose you don't know a shit about Mishima Yukio (三島 由紀夫). First, it was a pen name of Kimitake Hiraoka (平岡 公威) and he was nominated for the Nobel prize for literature for three times. Oh, you knew this already? Maybe you should follow his example! Don't just read The Golden Pavillion... live his life! The bimbo, I have no better word for him, died committing seppuku. As the leader of a paramilitary organsiation, sworn to protect the Emperor, he failed a coup d'état with the intent to restore the Emperor's power and when the soldiers who were adressed by him started to mock him, he decided that his bowels need some air. It could be just another sad story of a psychopath with literary gift, but what REALLY PISSES ME OFF ABOUT THIS MOTHERFUCKING COWARDLY SADIST is that "Mishima received a draft notice for the Imperial Japanese Army during World War II. At the time of his medical check up, he had a cold and spontaneously lied to the army doctor about having symptoms of tuberculosis; he was thus declared unfit for service." (Wiki) Ah, sending others to die for your motherfucking emperor is something natural...if you stay at home and look them perish for YOUR cause.
Shortly - even nominated for Nobel, he was just a Japanese nazi. Hidden under the cloak of bushido. But he DID seppuku in the 20th century. So he's a sort of an icon for Japanese. Clearly the point of his avoiding military service when it was really dangerous is avoided all the time, it's the bravery he showed in peace time that's important.
I hope you can get how Mishima doesn't really fit in a research about Japanese peacemaking. Again, don't get me wrong - don't know why folks so many times wants and do overturn my words just to fit their daily point of view - Mishima has nothing to do with the people who dedicated their life to peace, especially those who did survive The Bomb. Or The BombS, for the nijū hibakusha (even if only one is officialy recognized to be it, Tsutomu Yamaguchi)
After all this time and all my rantings you may wonder about my position about the bomb or the Japanese.. just keep wondering, that's what I do all the time. I wrote that I'm an idiot, it wasn't just to make a joke. Long ago it passed the time when I was so proud of "being crazty, yes, but stupid, never". Life proved me wrong so many times.
There's gonna be an A performing here, dunno exactly when, the day just skipped me. And there's gonna be a K and a B with her, all 48 of them, if I understood the posters well.
No sleep, third night in row. No wonder I see ghosts on the street.