četrtek, 30. april 2009

Tokunoshima!

Nimam pretvornika in nimam sumnikov, ampak drugace ne gre, prilagajanje je na dnevnem redu.
Na poti do Tokunoshime sem prezivel vec kot 48 ur, seveda z najcenejsimi variantami. V Pusanu se nisem ustavljal, z avtobusne s podzemno direkt na trajekt, ki sem ga cakal sicer cel dan, ampak je najcenejsa varianta in traja dobrih 8 ur, z vkrcavanjem in izkrcavanjem pa kar 11. Nato Hakata oziroma Fukuoka in spet in ponovno intelektualci z opravljenim izpitom iz odkrivanja sumljivih emigrantov... Tokrat, na mojo sreco, sem bil ravno dovolj utrujen, da se mi ni dalo cisto nic, ne pa toliko, da bi bil jezen na cel svet.
"So, Mr. KLeva, you are from Slovenia?"
Wow, totalno presenecenje! Nic Ukrajine? "Yes."
"So, why you come here from Korea?"
Khm... well.. najbrz ker sem bil v Zimbabweju... "Because I was in Korea."
"Oh, I see. So you will stay at this adress?" in pokaze na imigracijski formular, ki sem ga moral prej izpolnit. "Isthis a hotel?"
"No, I visit a friend, his adress."
"He live in Kagoshima?"
"No, on Tokunoshima, prefecture of Kagoshima."
"So why you write Kagoshima?"
"I wrote Kagoshimaken and I was told that means prefecture of Kagoshima and Tokunoshimatyo is a part of it."
"Aaaaa, Kagoshimaken, yes, so, where does yor friend live?"
Dag, nasmehni se, ne zaspat... "On Tokunoshima, in Kedoku."
Jupi, samo se prstne odtise in fotko na druzinski album in po 10 minutah so me spustili na Japonska tla... yes, dream on, konju jedan, to je bila imigracija, zdaj se carina in prvo, prekrasno vprasanje: "You are from Slovenia?"
"Yes," s sirokim nasmehom.
"And why you come from Korea?"
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA - samo v mislih, dejansko pa samo razlagal intelektualcu z IQ stevile noge, kako se da iz Slovenije prit na Japonsko CELO preko Koreje...
Nato, koncno, Fukuoka. No, poiscimo zemljevid mesta, kako s podzemno prit do avtobusne postaje. Mnja, najblizja postaja podzemne je na avtobusni postaji, najbolje da se do tja odpravim pes, potem se bom ze odlocil. Se prej pa bedne wone menjat v yene. V Koreji sem bil ze navajen, da moram za vsako menjavo valute pokzat potni list, tukaj ga pa na moje presenecenje niso potrebovali. Sem pa zato moral izpolnit obrazec z miljonom nepotrebnih podatkov za njihovo bazo, vkljucno s telefonsko stevilko - kar sem pustil prazno.
"Mr., your telephone number!"
"Well, I have no phone."
"No no, your telephone number."
Na, bodi vesel, in ce ima kdo na obmocju +386 14mestno telefonsko stevilko in ga bodo klicali z Japonske...ah, shit, woni so bili najbrz ponarejeni...
Edini uporaben nacrt mesta, ki sem ga dobil, je bil v korejscini in brez jebe in brez falit sem iz prve prisel na avtobusno postajo. Kar me je malo - da ki malo - zmedlo, je bilo to, da sem se do postaje moral povzpet z liftom v tretje nadstropje.. v drugem je namrec podzemna... naj se kdo rece, da Japonci niso cudni...
Nato 4 ure voznje z enim postankom do Kagoshime, kjer sem spet cisto "po nosu" izstopil na skoraj pravi postaji in sem imel do luke borih 20 minut pesacenja. Najdem luko in ferry terminal in jupi... in kuracpalac in jebanje v glavo se zacne... imajo 4 potniske terminale in seveda niti na enem ne govorijo anglesko - razen na zadnjem. OK, pac ne govorijo anglesko, ampak "Tokunoshima" so razumeli, saj mi karte niso prodali in so me poslali drugam, kjer naj bi to naredili, ampak se je zgodba le ponovila. Na tretjem okencu - ta okenca so bila vsaksebi od 40 minut do ene ure hoje - je bilo najhuje. Ne, ker bi jaz bil ze totalno nakurcen ali ker je manjkalo 20 minut do odhoda trajekta, ampak je bila ena krota res krepko too much...
"Tokunoshima...?"
Z druge strani japonscina. Ja, takoj mi je kapnilo, da nisem na pravem kraju, saj ob nobeni postavki ni bilo ure 18:00, ko gre trajekt na Okinawo.
"OK, not here, but WHERE I can get the ferry for Tokunoshima?"
Yay, vzela je listek in pisalo, kul, dobim narisano! Mi ga da.... pa koji ti je kurac, jebem te baba blesava, kaj mi bo ta telefonska stevilka?
"Phone ferry." In japonski nasmeh. E, po 3 sekundah ratam alergicen na ta njihov nakurceni smajl, ker pomeni tocno in edino "jebi se".
"SO I PHONE THE FUCKING FERRY AND IT WILL COME HERE TO PICK ME?"
Ze prej je bla cakalnica totalno tiha, na Japonskem je vse tiho, po mojem dretju pa je tisina postala - pesnisko receno - otipljiva.
Nakar je uboga pupa, ki sploh ne razume anglesko in jo barbarski neotesanec tako terorizira, izpod pulta izvlekla zemljevid pristanisca, urno pokazala pomol "We here", obkrozila cetrti pomol "Tokunoshima ferry here". Saj sem vedel, lepa beseda lepo mesto najde. Zato sem se vljudno priklonil in se zahvalil "Kamsanmida"... tako, za moralno klofuto. In v dir. Believe me, z zvitim gleznjem in nahrbtnikom ni sala prelaufat par kilometrov, ampak uspelo mi je. In odpujsal sem na Pacifik, za 11.000 yenov mi je pripadal futon na skupnih leziscih.... ahem... na fotki je polovica kabine za cca 100 folka in prizor me je nezadrzno spominjal na skico tovorne ladje, s katero so vozili suznje iz Afrike.

Koliko sem spal, si lahko predstavljate ob podatkih o vonjavah, zvokih in premetavanju trajekta - kar bi lahko bilo zabavno, ce bi imel ob strani brhko mladenko, ne pa nadebudnega sumo borca z Okinawe (no joke), ki se je vsakih 20 sekund zakotalil name...
Ampak prezivel sem. In Takaichiro "call me Taka" Hutori me je pricakal in tukaj sem, na jako vetrovnem otoku, dnevne temperature okoli 20 stopinj, nocne temperature okoli 20 stopinj... Po dveh dneh sem ze prijetno zapecen ko odojek, adapterja za elektriko se nimam, naokoli se furam z Yamaha skuterjem - noro, ti japonci so cisto prfuknjeni, vsi vozijo po napacni strani ceste! Oponasat jih je cel podvig, ne bi o kriziscih... ampak to pocet nabasan, kot sem danes, pa je prava nocna mora.

nedelja, 26. april 2009

Turizmo iber alles!

Vztrajno špilam turista, čisto prav zares. Sploh ker spet dežuje - saj sem rekel, po soncu VEDNO pride dež and that's it.
E, majke mi, nije opet ono bjelo govno, ne bom spet jokal o zimi, samo češnjevi cvetovi odpadajo...

Do Seokgurama se da povzpet z avtobusom, a sem nekako raje tvegal bore 3 kilometre vzpona po tlakovani cesti v senci dreves in sem v tem času trikrat "obrnil" malo z
아제 아제 바라아제 바라승아제 모지 사바하
아제 아제 바라아제 바라승아제 모지 사바하
아제 아제 바라아제 바라승아제 모지 사바하
마하반야바라밀다심경
No, prišel na vrh, bil oskubljen za vstopnino, naredil še 1 km, nato zagledal tole

In not gužva in spet nič fotkanja, niti poskušal nisem, nekako okradenega sem se počutil, plac je ma prav za en K. Ali o tom potom. No, 3.5 metra velik granitni Shakyamuni zgleda takole, fotka sneta z wikipedije

Tale ni z wikipedije (no, mene se že najde, fotke pa ne)

Je pa bil zato veliko bolj poučen izlet v muzej, slabe pol ure od hostla in tam - jupi, končno! - tudi kupi kamenja! In stupe in svega i svačega..

In ko sem videl ta bambus (ker pravega bambusovega gozda tu še nisem) sem se kar spomnil na Radeta in bi mu ga privoščil za hišo...

Buddhist art hall


Archeological hall - meni vedno najbolj zanimive. Tudi zato:

In zdaj, sem jaz taki pokvarjenec ali še kdo vidi širok nasmeh veselega pričakovanja?

Spet v bolj poduhovljene sfere...



No, to so fotke iz hale za trenutne razstave in tu sem videl posnetke iz Seokgurama.med ostalim tudi izjemno 3D animacijo gradnje in mikroskopsko natančnost, s katero je bila umetna jama narejena. Vzame sapo, to bi moral videt prej!
Sledil je sprehod čez cesto do Anapji, rezidence Silla kraljev, za kar so me oskubili za 1000 wonov - muzej je namreč ob vikendih za tujce zastonj!!!!


Misel dneva: v Koreji sem že ves čas soočen z načinom življenja, ki od vedno postavlja na prvo mesto spoštovanje do starejših. Na železniški imajo posebno vrsto, da ne čakajo, s podzemno se vozijo zastonj, z njimi (nami?) so vsi prijazni... pa vendar... Danes sem čakal avtobus in zavistno gledal objet mlad parček na postaji. Pride striček s palčko, komaj koraka in sopiha, ampak lej ga zlomka, kolko ima staro govno energije, zavihti palico in useka mladca po hrbtu - samo zato ker sta stala preblizu zidka, na katerega se je namenil usest. Pa ni bil edini kos zida, ki bi bil razpoložljiv, metri in metri na levo in desno, ampak ne - on bo svojo koščeno rit krepaline postavil točno tja. Punca in fant pa - se odmakneta in priklonita v opravičilo...mavaffankulo! Na busu ni bilo nič bolje - čim je vstopil so mu seveda koj odstopili sedež, ampak ne - s palico je ponovno uveljavil svojo željo, da hoče dva sedeža zase. Well, če je to proizvod lepega odnosa do starejših - to hell with us. Raje jih sam dobim s palico po hrbtu, kot pa se obnašam takole. Morala - ki jo poznamo vsi: vsako pretiravanje škodi.
Reklama dneva: Hanjin hostel. Par minut od avtobusne postaje, tako medmestne kot ekspresne, 15 minut od železniške, kul plac, kul folk, zmerne cene.


Lastnik, Mr. Kwon, ko sem ga začopatil med igranje sintesajzerja v recepciji (v recepciji tudi živi cela družina, nekaj običajnega)

Spet Mr. Kwon, na fotki izpred par let, med telovadbo. Prosim, bodite pozorni na prste rok...

In še zbirališče, jedilnica, žur plac... sprva mi je bilo kar fajn, ker se stalno meša in menjuje cela mednarodna druščina, francozi, poljaki, kanadčanke, nemka, malezijec, japonca, španca (en glupi slovenac)...al majke im ga nabijem, tukaj so mi zginle palčke, pa le par sekund so bile brez nadzora... cigani turistični! Vseeno priporočam postanek prav tukaj, terasa je še posebej kul, ampak zdaj je prehladno in dežuje..

Jutri pa v Pusan in s prvim trajektom v Fukuoko in direkt naravnost na Tokunoshimo, kot sem obljubil Hutoriju. Ne bom čakal mrka, da mi luna zakriva sonce, če me v korejskih hribih pogreša en tak zlat mali sonček... He In, I'm back sooner than you think...

sobota, 25. april 2009

경주

It's raining and I'm not singing in the rain, so I stopped in Gyeongju, the capital of the ancient kingdom Silla. Not for the city itself, don't care much really, but the surroundings are sort of amazing - in the cultural meaning, not exactly for sightseeing. I stopped at the Hanjin hostel, a very very nice place to be, it reminds me of the Kaynarca in Turkey - only pleasant memories. I was told it's an expensive place (Gyeongju, not Hanjin), but I'm still laughing at the prices. Probably I'll cry in Japan. Today I ate lunch in a restaurant on a top touristic spot: 6000won (less than 4€) for a bibimbap with loads of banchan and triple serving of kimchi. No beer or soju. At the hostel I can use the kitchen so I bought tofu, kimchi, kim and hot peppers at the market. Don't ask the prices, half kilo of tofu 600won... Besides my little pumpkin He In I miss Nandida's kimchi, hopefully one day she'll teach me her secret way of making it.
Cleaning the park

Burial tumuli



I was a good tourist and I spent almost all day at the Bulguksa temple, a huge complex that I strolled slowly, almost in meditation, and it came to me naturally to bow in front of each Shakyamuni statue (loads of them). The hell, if I think of myself just a few months ago: Dag doesn't bow in front of anyone! In a way I still don't, I just follow Seung Sahn sunim's advice: Little I bows in front of big I.











Meditation or not, respect or not - I had to prove myself and take pictures where is forbidden. Not an easy task, security guards everywhere and all shrines are covered with cc security cameras. Once I was almost thrown out when caught in the act, but I have one picture of Shakyamuni!

Well, but the sign "off limits" stopped me - I really wouldn't argue with those two guys, they really look like mean ass-kicking bastards.

Hm, how else would a gas station near the temple look like...

Tomorrow again to the temple for a walk to the Seokguram grotto
And I just love konglish:

četrtek, 23. april 2009

Switching to English

For all my new friends in Korea here and there I'll post sort of a résumé - or a complete new post, like now. The last few days could have been fantastic if it was not for He In... missing her so much. Yvonne, please tell her that the soap she gave me is the best soap in the world!
If I cut out of my thinking the cutiest girl in Korea - impossible to do, but I try - these days were great! Blisters on my soles, a twisted ankle, chased by the Korean Army, sunburns, sleeping in a wet sleepingbag, a slight sunstroke... just great, that's the way a-ha a-ha I like it...
I'm doing slightly less than 50 km a day and I'm approaching Uljin - 울진. The scenery is something amazing, even monks appreciate it...





Only all that barbed wire just everywhere...

My enemy, the wind

Yay, let's rape the flowers! (Hope He In's English hasn't improved THAT much...)

Cooking ramyon on the beach...

...and I taught that the barbed wire is just a relic of the past cold war paranoia... I was wrong, as usual. Soldiers STILL do rounds on the beach and probably I scared to death two young soldiers. But scared men with rifles (and I cleraly heard the sound of unlocking the secure) are scarily dangerous so when they called for instructions my paranoid mind pictured the conversation something like this: "Captain, there's an idiot on the beach... do I get a medal if I shoot him?" Luckily somebody told him that just for being an idiot they can't execute me, so I was friendly invited to leave the place. A polite request, underlined with two machineguns pointed at me, is a thing I can't ignore so I just made them happy. I was sort of glad to leave the beach because the ocean waves were noisy as a crowded highway (so much for all the newagers that like "natural sounds" for relaxation, ocean waves my ass), but then I had to sleep on a field where at 5 I woke up because the sleeping bag was soaked wet with dew. What to do to? Ah, let's take a walk...
I also visited a strange park, full of phallic simbols... well, no simbols at all, just pure and plain cocks everywhere and I WON'T post any pictures because somebody underage might see this blog!
Today the sun was my enemy...

... on the other hand today I met a guy who bought me lunch, just like this... I love Korea.
Besides the ramyon I eat something absolutely mashissoyo; I'll use Yvonne's words: West meets East, rutabaga and kim.. mmmmmmmm! Thank you Iva, thnk you Nandida!

STATISTIKA